Which came first?

Not the chicken or egg, although that is a puzzle, but fabric or pattern.

Hello and welcome to my October Blog for Fabrics for All.

Sometimes I just have to have the fabric and I have an embarrassing amount of patterns so sometimes a fabric just tells me what it needs to be. That’s what happened when I was scrolling though Fabrics for All website and came across this,

Tropical Print French Terry Fabric

The photo doesn’t do justice to the colours. It’s a french terry and its glorious, really soft with a great recovery and I knew it would make the perfect Monarch Jacket I bought this pattern through Indiesew a pattern by Allie Olsen.

Monarch Jacket Waistband | Indiesew Sewing Patterns

Most of the images online show this with contrast sleeve and collar and I knew I had a good choice of colours to pick out of the fabric.

So armed with my pattern I went to talk to Sarah at Fabrics for All. This is the beauty of shopping local. I took my idea and she developed it for me. I could have picked green or blue to contrast but she had a beautiful hot pink terry from the same manufacturer so weight wise these were a perfect match. More choice here. My plan is for this jacket to be available next time my hubby springs a holiday on me and also it’s a great lightweight jacket for mid season.

I am really trying to learn new techniques with sewing and new stitches on my machine so after washing and cutting out I tried using all the different stretch stitches on scrap pieces and discovered stitch 21 on my Bernina with a increase on basic stitch length gave me this stitch I told hubby it looked like a heartbeat. He did tell me in that case I am poorly but it gives a really good stretch to the terry fabric.

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Haha my poorly heartbeat!

This is such a clever stitch as it’s flat on the left side so when you press you get a nice edge.

The pattern starts with the front edges. As these get poppers on them later they are interfaced and then folded back. It suggests different finishes as the edges are not seen and one of them is bias binding. I had some pink in the stash so that was a new to me technique and I think it turned out well.

The sleeves are then added to the front raglan edge, then the back raglans, then you sew from the cuffs to the bottom edge. Very quickly this starts to look like a jacket.

The collar is a work of art!! There are 3 pattern piece options for the collar all depending on the amount of stretch in your fabric. Mine had between 30 and 40% so mine needed the largest collar. This is so the collar stretches across the neck without gathering the top of the jacket but tight enough to lie flat against the neck when wearing. Brilliant!! It’s basted on first and when I knew it was OK I over locked it on for a tidy finish. Since finishing this I have seen how you can add ribbon or tape across the back neck to give a better finish so I might go back and do this later. The collar is lined up to just pass the edge of the jacket that will fold back, then the front is folded back, right sides together first, sewn, so when turned back, wrong sides together, the collar edge disappears down and the front hides the seams (look at the photos below)

The first photo is sewing on the collar, the second is folding back the front to sew and the third is when you fold it back so all neat and tidy.

The waistband is applied to the bottom of the jacket the same way, leaving all the seams hidden and tidy.

And we are nearly finished, cuffs next, usual cuff attachment and then snaps. There are only 3 snaps down the front. These are marked on the pattern and are half inch or 13mm. I have the Prym vario pliers and used the anorak silver snaps. These are a great tool, so useful.

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And yes I know they are not evenly spaced as hubby pointed out. So I told him I need a Simflex spacer for my birthday if he needs his OCD calming.

So sorry but since I made this jacket it’s done nothing but rain in Yorkshire but the lovely Christine is always available to model on my behalf.

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It looks sunny outside but it is raining, again, still!!

Am I pleased? definitely yes, both with the pattern and the fabric. I have had french terry before but it was stiff and rough. This is soft and warm and so stable it’s easy to sew for beginners and on another note I didn’t use my walking foot, just the standard foot. Will I make it again? Yes, I can imagine it in a cable knit as a short cardigan/jacket.

Monarch jacket pattern is $14 or £11.39.

I sewed a size 14 and found the size to be true to guide.

Fabric was gifted to me for a blog review but I chose both the fabric and the pattern.

 

Have you seen Fabrics for All are starting classes and craft workshops?

Free motion embroidery, Christmas bunting, patchwork and applique. These are on weekends and also through the week so looks like something for everyone.

Also they are having 2nd birthday celebrations this weekend 12th-13th October so you can go check out their new workspace and find out about New Year sewing classes.

Hope to see some of you there,

Happy Sewing K xXx